Types Of Aeonium: Varieties, ID, And Photos

Aeonium plants are the perfect mix of interesting foliage, ease of care, color variety, and subtropical looks.

If you’re in the market for an easy-to-grow plant that will bring a splash of color to your yard or garden space, you can’t go wrong with Aeonium succulents.

So what makes Aeonium so special? How do they differ from other succulent plants? And how can you grow them in your own backyard? Read on to find out all there is to know about all types of Aeonium species.

About Aeonium Plants

Aeonium is a genus of about 35 species of subtropical succulent plants that are mostly native to the Canary Islands. Some species are also endemic to Madeira, Morocco, Cape Verde, East Africa, and Yemen. They are small to medium-sized shrubs growing to 1 to 6 feet tall, with leaves in rosettes at the tips of the stems.

Interestingly enough, almost all types of Aeonium are endemic to the Canary Islands and surrounding regions. Only Aeonium stuessyi and Aeonium leucoblepharum originate from East Africa and Yemen.

The genus is an unusual and diverse group of plants. Although there are only a few Aeonium species in the genus, they have many cultivars and hybrids that multiply that number quite significantly.

Their drought-tolerant nature and undemanding growing requirements make them an excellent choice for beginner gardeners or those looking to get back into gardening.

Why Aeonium?

Aeoniums are beautiful, strange, and sometimes rare plants that will brighten up any windowsill or garden. These sun-loving succulents come in a wide variety of colors, shapes, and sizes, so there’s sure to be an Aeonium that’s perfect for you.

And with just a little bit of TLC, these long-lived plants can thrive for many years. So if you’re looking for a plant that’s both easy to care for and interesting to look at, be sure to add an Aeonium to your collection.

Aeoniums are drought-tolerant and only need to be watered every two weeks or so, making them perfect for those hot summer months when you don’t want to spend a lot of time outdoors watering your plants.

They can be planted in nearly any type of soil and will do well in both full sun and partial shade.

What Is Aeonium Used For?

Ornamental Plants

Aeonium plants are grown mainly for foliage, which comes in a wide variety of colors, shapes, and sizes. The leaves can be green, yellow, pink, red, or purple and are often variegated or blotched with different colors.

The leaves come together and arrange themselves in a rosette. These rosettes have a distinctly tropical look to them that makes them immediately recognizable even in a sea of regular plants.

In a garden setting, Aeonium succulents are there to make a statement. Their rosettes are usually not small, and even when they are, they don’t blend in and become a part of the background. It’s no wonder they’re so highly regarded as ornamental houseplants.

Most enthusiasts end up displaying these beauties in rock gardens or Mediterranean settings. Potted Aeonium plants are also quite popular.

Air Purifiers

There are some claims that some types of Aeonium can be used to purify the air and make it free of toxins. Although there are some studies that suggest some succulents are capable of such a thing, no scientific studies have been done specifically with Aeonium plants in mind. This is, of yet, an unsubstantiated claim.

How to Identify an Aeonium?

The rough shape of an Aeonium rosette remains the same no matter what the species. This makes identifying Aeonium types quite an easy task.

However, separating Aeonium varieties from one another is where the true challenge lies. Aeonium arboreum, the de-facto Aeonium as it were, is the most widely hybridized species in the genus. In most garden centers, what you see labeled as Aeonium arboreum is rarely a true A. arboreum specimen but rather a hybrid or a cultivar.

These days, true Aeonium plants are rarely seen in stores. You’ll have to dig deep to find true Aeonium types for sale.

For identification, i.e., differentiating Aeonium from other plants, here is what you need to look out for.

1. Inspect Leaves

In most types of Aeonium, the leaves are thick and fleshy, usually green, sometimes variegated, and often with a reddish tip; in some varieties, the leaves are red, purple, or even black.

Unlike other rosette-forming succulents, Aeonium types have oblong, almost oval leaves with soft edges. If we consider Haworthia or Aloes for a moment, both rosette-forming plants, their leaves are triangular, with sharp edges and pointy ends.

Most types of Aeonium plants have similar, elongated, upward-facing, flat leaves. They are all arranged in tight rosettes that sometimes appear on the tips of the stems and sometimes near the base.

The surface of the leaves can have tiny hairs (cilia) growing on them or not. They can be glossy or rough. They’re usually on the thinner sides when compared to other succulents (Echeveria), but thicker-leaved Aeonium varieties are also out there.

Leaves often blush red when they are placed in direct sunlight.

2. Identify Flowers

The most straightforward way to identify different types of Aeonium is by their flowers. No matter what their color, the flowers of Aeonium plants have petals that are not in contact with the other petals. This creates uniquely distinct, star-shaped flowers that are easily identifiable.

These flowers grow on a simple or branched inflorescence rising above the plant; they are yellow, pink, or white.

These flowers appear in conical clusters on a simple or branched inflorescence rising above the foliage. They are usually star-shaped with colors ranging from white, yellow, golden, red, and pink.

It’s a shame that if you end up identifying an Aeonium species from its flowers, it’s probably well on its way to dying. Unless it has already offset, in which case, you’re in luck.

3. Check Stems

The stems of Aeonium plants are usually short and erect, and they can be either simple or branched. They’re sometimes soft near the base, but more often than not, they’re woody.

The stems are often some shade of brown. They can be scaly or fissured with rough spots. The branches of an Aeonium plant are either bare or have rosettes growing the tips.

Aeoniums seldom branch from the base but rather from near their tips; when they do, the resulting plant has a bushy appearance.

Aeonium Photo Gallery

How To Care For Aeonium Plants

Aeoniums are easy-to-grow succulents that make wonderful houseplants or addition to any garden, big or small. These sun-loving plants are perfect for rock gardens, xeriscaping, and even as potted plants on a sunny windowsill.

In general, most Aeonium species are low-maintenance plants that require little care. However, there are a few things you need to keep in mind if you want your plant to thrive.

Light:

Aeoniums love full sun but can also tolerate partial shade. In hot climates, it’s best to give them some afternoon shade to prevent sunburn.

In cooler climates, they tolerate more direct sunlight. If you regularly experience hot summers, it’s best to grow Aeoniums in pots so you can relocate them easily and give them the light they need.

For some types of Aeonium, a good amount of light is essential for them to showcase their colors best. Aeonium types that blush red or purple in full sun fall under this category.

A key thing to note when moving Aeonium from low light conditions to bright light is that they need a small window of time to acclimate themselves to their environments.

Move your plant gradually and in increments. Don’t move it from deep shade to full sun in one go, or you’ll have a sunburnt succulent on your hands. And nobody wants that!

Soil:

Aeoniums are not fussy when it comes to the soil as long as it drains well. A gritty, well-draining mix is best. You can either mix your own potting mix or purchase a commercial succulent or cactus potting mix from your local nursery.

If you’re making your own mix, make sure to add some perlite or pumice to improve drainage. Avoid using garden soil as it’s too dense and will hold too much water for the roots of your Aeonium. Sharp sand, grit, and gravel also work well if added sparingly.

Remember! Good drainage is the key here. A well-draining potting soil is better than nutrient-rich soil for almost all succulents. And Aeonium succulents are no different.

Water:

Aeoniums are drought-tolerant plants that do not like to be waterlogged. In fact, they are more likely to rot than to suffer from dehydration.

If you’ve ever cared for a succulent, you know that the biggest threat to a succulent is too much water, i.e., overwatering. A good caretaker knows to ration and only water when necessary.

During the growing season (depends on the types of Aeonium), water your plant deeply but infrequently. Then wait for all the excess water to leave the pot completely.

After each watering session, wait a week or so before even thinking about watering again. Once you feel your succulent is ready to be watered, stick your finger in the potting mix. If it comes up dry, you can water it freely; if not, wait another day.

In winter, reduce watering even further. You can essentially let your plant go almost completely dry during this time. In the winter months, the water tends to evaporate slowly. This means more wait times between waterings.

Depending on the soil you’re using, this might even mean only one watering session the entire season.

If you’re not completely sure if you need to water your Aeonium, it’s always better to underwater than it is to overwater.

Temperature:

The optimal temperature range for most types of Aeonium is between 65 to 75 Fahrenheit (18-23°C). In winter, don’t let if fall below 40 Fahrenheit. Keep it around 50 for the best results.

Aeoniums are not frost-hardy plants. This means they cannot tolerate even a light frost. In cold climates, it’s best to grow your plant indoors or in a greenhouse.

However, if you do decide to grow them outdoors, make sure to give them some protection from the cold. Avoid watering in the cold season if you don’t want your plants to freeze from the inside out.

If you’ve planted your plant outdoors and are worried about the frost, you can easily move your Aeonium plants indoors quite easily. These plants are suited for container cultivation and adapt to the indoor environment easily and quickly.

Best suited for warmer climates. Suitable for containers so can be moved indoors to overwinter.

Fertilizer:

Aeoniums are not heavy feeders and do not need a lot of fertilizer to thrive. In fact, too much fertilizer can actually do more harm than good.

If you decide to fertilize your plant, use a low nitrogen succulent or cactus fertilizer and apply it sparingly. Too much fertilizer will only damage your plant and stunt its growth.

It’s best to fertilize your Aeonium during the growing season (spring and fall). Avoid fertilizing in the winter or the summer (depending on the plant) as the plant is dormant during this time and doesn’t need the extra nutrients. Once or twice during the season is usually sufficient.

How to Propagate Aeoniums

There are three methods of propagation. Seeds, offsets, and cuttings.

1. Propagation by Seeds

Seeds are rare, and not all Aeoniums can produce them easily. Most gardeners don’t bother with them. But if you want to grow your Aeonium from seed, the best time to sow is in the spring.

The Steps to propagate by seeds:

1. Sow the seeds on the top layer of a well-draining potting mix and lightly press them into the mix.
2. Do not bury them deep into the mix as they need light to germinate.
3. Place the pot in a warm area with bright indirect light and keep the soil moist but not wet.
4. The seeds should germinate within 2-4 weeks.
5. Once germination is complete, you can move them to a brighter location.

2. Propagation by Offsets

Not all types of Aeonium offset, but for those that do, propagation by offsets is the most convenient method. Offsets are essentially mini-plants that have already completed half of their development phase already. When it’s a choice between continuing an almost adult plant vs. cultivating one from scratch, the smart gardeners choose the first one every time.

The offsets or “pups” usually appear at the base of the plant, but in some cases, they have been known to grow from the outer leaves of the parent plant’s rosettes. These offsets can be removed from the mother plant and propagated quite easily.

The optimal time to remove offsets is in the early spring or fall.

1. Gently remove the offset from the mother plant, being careful not to damage the roots.
2. Once you’ve removed the offset, allow it to callus over for a few days before potting it up in a well-draining potting mix.
3. Place the pot in a spot with bright, indirect light and water when necessary.

3. Propagation by Cuttings

Stem or Leaf cuttings are the de-facto method of propagation for most Aeonium plants. If your plant doesn’t offset and only has a solitary rosette, take a cutting from it and cultivate a new plant before the first one dies.

Take cuttings in the fall, when the plants are actively growing. If your plant only has one rosette, you might need to take leaf cuttings rather than stem cuttings. But if it has multiple rosettes, make a clean cut near the base of a pre-selected rosette and separate it from the parent plant.

1. Make a clean cut on the branch using a clean pair of shears.
2. Allow the cutting a few days to callus over in a shady spot.
3. Pot it up in a well-draining potting mix with drainage holes drilled into the pot. The cutting might be top-heavy, so you have to tamp down the mix to hold it upright. Once it takes root, it will do that itself.
4. Place the pot in a bright location with indirect light and water when necessary. Leaf cuttings should root within 2-4 weeks.

Repotting Aeoniums

The best time to repot your Aeonium is in the early fall, just before it begins its active growth phase. Repot every 2-3 years.

Follow these steps for repotting aeoniums:

1. Choose a pot that is only 1-2 inches larger than the current pot and has drainage holes drilled into the bottom.
2. Fill the new pot with a well-draining succulent or cactus mix.
3. Carefully remove the Aeonium from its current pot, being careful not to damage the roots too much.
4. Place the Aeonium in the new pot and fill in any empty space around it with more of the potting mix.
5. Water deeply and place in a bright location with indirect light.

Pests and diseases

Aeoniums are relatively resistant to pests and diseases, but they’re not immune. The most common pests that attack Aeoniums are aphids, mealybugs, scale, and spider mites. These pests are usually more of a problem indoors where the plants are not receiving enough ventilation.

The best way to combat these pests is by regularly cleaning your plants with a soft cloth or brush. This will remove any eggs or larvae that might be present. If the infestation is severe, you can use an insecticidal soap or neem oil solution.

Aeonium types that have loose, large rosettes are easy to care for. You can clean the leaves individually and with great care. But some types of Aeonium tend to form tightly bound rosettes (e.g., Aeonium dodrantale), and it’s hard to remove pests once they’ve taken root. Prevention is the only foolproof method here.

Common Aeonium Problems

Why Is My Aeonium Dropping Leaves?

Summer is the main dormancy phase for most types of Aeonium. If your plant is exhibiting this behavior in the summer, it’s perfectly natural and a part of its lifecycle. If the leaves are curling as well, you might have a case of underwatering at your hands. Check your watering routine to make sure.

Leaves Turning Yellow or Brown?

If the leaves of your Aeonium are turning yellow, it’s most likely because they’re getting sunburnt. Move the plant to a slightly shadier location and see if that helps. Burnt leaves won’t grow back, but it should prevent new leaves from burning as well.

Dead Rosette?

Remember when we mentioned these plants are monocarpic? This is what that means. Once a rosette has flowered and displayed its blooms for the world to see, it will immediately die out. There is nothing to be done; it’s perfectly natural.

Are Aeonium Plants Toxic?

No, Aeonium plants are not toxic to humans or animals. They’re actually considered non-toxic by the ASPCA. However, as with any plant, it’s always best to keep them out of reach of small children and pets who might try to nibble on them.

Popular Aeonium Types For Indoors

Aeonium arboreum (Tree Aeonium)

Aeonium arboreum is a succulent shrub that grows in the Canary Islands. It’s also known as Tree Aeonium, and for good reason – it can grow up to 6 feet (2 meters) tall!

The fleshy, spoon-shaped leaves group together to form tight, bright green rosettes at the tips of the branches. Even without the flowers, the leaves are the true heroes of this plant and retain interest throughout the seasons.

The stems are tall and upright, with a woody texture. They spread in the form of a subshrub, not quite as tall as a true tree but close.

Bright yellow flowers appear in clusters above the rosettes in a gorgeous display. Rosettes die once they flower, as these plants are monocarpic. The star-shaped flowers are borne on racemes, and they arrange themselves in a triangular pattern.

• Light: Full sun
• Mature Size: 3-5 ft. tall
• Frost Hardiness: 25°F (-3.9°C)

Aeonium aureum (Green Rose Buds)

Aeonium aureum, commonly known as the Green Rose Buds, are succulent plants native to the Canary Islands. These are beautiful succulents often used as ornamental plants. They’re characterized by thick, fleshy, spoon-shaped leaves that grow in bright green rosettes.

Usually, they only have a single rosette to their name that blooms like a rose flower. In the summer, this rosette is tight and resembles a tightly bound rose. But in the winter, this rosette loosens up slightly, and the leaves spread out to form a loose structure, still resembling a rose.

It’s often confused with Aeonium dodrantale, but you can tell the difference between the two by checking for rosettes. Aeonium aureum doesn’t offset, while Aeonium dodrantale does.

The Aeonium aureum has lovely small yellow flowers that bloom in the spring. They last for several weeks and are quite showy. After the blooms fade, the plant goes dormant until the next growing season.

• Light: Partial sun
• Mature Size: 10 inches wide
• Frost Hardiness: 25°F (-3.9°C)

Aeonium castello paivae

Aeonium castello-paivae is an interesting succulent plant native to the Canary Islands. It’s an erect, branching plant that can grow up to 1 foot tall. The light green leaves are thick and fleshy with a red margin. They’re arranged in a rosette pattern and can be up to 6 inches (15 cm) long.

The flowers are white and appear in summer. They’re not particularly showy, but they’re interesting nonetheless. This is a fast-growing plant that’s easy to care for. It’s also drought tolerant once it’s established.

The variegated variety of Aeonium castello paivae is quite easily available in a specialized garden store. It has a mixture of dark and light green streaks running throughout the surface of the leaves.

• Light: Bright Light to Light shade
• Mature Size: 12 inches wide
• Frost Hardiness: 25°F (-3.9°C)

Aeonium canariense (Giant Velvet Rose / Canary Island Aeonium)

The Aeonium canariense, or Giant Velvet Rose, is a succulent native to the Canary Islands. It’s one of the bigger varieties of Aeonium, with large rosettes that can reach up to three feet in diameter.

The spoon-shaped leaves of this plant are thick and fleshy, with a light green coloration that’s quite pleasant to look at. They have a velvety texture that feels great to the touch.

As long as the plant remains in the shade, the leaves stay green, but when exposed to bright sunlight, the outsides of the leaves develop a clear red tinge that’s quite something to look at.

The yellow star-shaped flowers are real show-stealers when they appear in the summertime. Unlike some other Aeonium varieties, these types of Aeonium offset quite easily and frequently.

• Light: Full sun to part shade
• Mature Size: 2-3 feet
• Frost Hardiness: 20°F (-6.7°C)

Aeonium ciliatum

Aeonium ciliatum is a succulent shrub native to the Canary Islands. It has gorgeous, green, and fleshy leaves growing in the shape of a rosette. The leaves are a light green color bordered with bright red margins. The rosettes are arranged on the tips of the stems, which are thick and woody.

Each rosette can grow up to 20 inches wide if given a chance which, as one might imagine, can get quite top-heavy. If planted in a pot, ensure the pot is completely secure and bottom-heavy to counteract the heaviness of the rosettes. Otherwise, your pot might just fall over.

The flowers of Aeonium ciliatum are small and cream-colored, borne on stalks that can be up to 18 inches (45 cm) tall, rising above the foliage. They appear in early summer.

• Light: Light shade
• Mature Size: 20 inches wide
• Frost Hardiness: 25°F (-3.9°C)

Aeonium decorum (Green Pinwheel)

Most Aeoniums have large, solitary rosettes that are the heroes of the show; Aeonium decorum, on the other hand,actually has many smaller rosettes of fleshy, bright green leaves that dot the branches of its woody subshrub stem system.

The leaves are margined with red, and each rosette has its leaves turning slightly flat as they blossom outwards. This effect looks remarkably like a pinwheel, hence the common name. The multitude of small rosettes is breathtaking in the right arrangement.

You can either keep these plants in a small pot or cultivate them as a groundcover. As they like to offset quite easily, they are perfect when you want to cover a lot of ground quickly.

The flowering season lasts from spring to summer. Gorgeous, star-shaped flowers are borne on racemes that rise above the rosettes in attractive patterns. Although these types of Aeonium plants are mainly grown for their interesting foliage, the flowers are no slouches either.

• Light: Full sun to part shade
• Mature Size: 1-2 feet
• Frost Hardiness: 25°F (-3.9°C)

Aeonium dodrantale (Greenovia Dodrantalis)

Aeonium dodrantale is a succulent species that’s endemic to the Canary Islands. It’s a beautiful rosette-forming plant with vibrant green leaves and bright yellow flowers.

The leaves are thick and fleshy, with a slightly wavy margin. They grow in a rosette shape and can reach up to 6 inches in diameter.

Aeonium dodrantale tends to remain tightly closed even when actively growing, a unique feature that sets them apart from other Aeonium types. The rosettes are so tightly knit, in fact, that they look like rosebuds that have just started blooming.

Greenovia Dodrantalis flowers appear in the spring or summer and are borne on medium-sized stalks. They’re yellow in color and have a tubular shape. 

• Light: Full sun to part shade
• Mature Size: 6 inches
• Frost Hardiness: 30°F (-1.1°C)

Aeonium haworthii (Pinwheel Aeonium)

Aeonium haworthii, also called Pinwheel Aeonium, is a beautiful succulent with rosettes that resemble pinwheels. The leaves are grey-green with red margins and can grow up to 8 inches (20 cm) long.

Aeonium haworthii is native to the Canary Islands, but it’s quite common in cultivation. It’s easy to grow, and it’s tolerant of most conditions, making it an ideal plant for beginners.

The main attraction of Aeonium haworthii is the leaves that form a perfectly symmetrical shape when they form their large rosettes. Each branching stem bears a single rosette.

Aeonium haworthii flowers appear in spring and summer. They’re yellow or pink, and they stand out against the green leaves.

• Light: Bright light to light shade
• Mature Size: 2 feet tall, 1 foot wide
• Frost Hardiness: 30°F (-1.1°C)

Aeonium hierrense (El Hierro Giant Houseleek)

The Aeonium hierrense, also known as El Hierro Giant Houseleek, is a succulent with beautiful large green leaves. It’s native to the island of El Hierro in the Canary Islands.

The leaves are large and glaucous, impressive in size and fleshy as they come. They are also covered entirely in small, inconspicuous hairs that aren’t visible from a distance. They form large rosettes, about 16 inches in diameter.

The arrangement of these large rosettes is perfectly symmetrical, and the leaves’ borders blush red in the sun. When mature, they make for an impressive display.

Flowers are almost completely white, but some variation is common. They appear in tightly formed cones that rise above the foliage.

• Light: Full sun to part shade
• Mature Size: 3.3 feet (1 meter)
• Frost Hardiness: 25°F (-3.9°C)

Aeonium leucoblepharum

Aeonium leucoblepharum is one of the prettiest Aeonium varieties native to the Canary Islands, where it grows in the wild as an evergreen succulent shrub.

This variegated succulent is easily recognizable due to its distinctively shaped leaves. They’re thick and fleshy, with a distinct red line running along the length of the leaf that’s visible from both ends.

The color ranges from light to dark green, but some specimens feature a purple or red tint. These colors are more pronounced when the plant is exposed to direct sunlight.

The tips of the fleshy leaves are pointed in some cases and absent in others. However, the thick red stripe on the leaves is always present and serves as a convenient identifier.

• Light: Full sun to part shade
• Mature Size: 10 inches
• Frost Hardiness: 25°F (-3.9°C)

Aeonium nobile (Noble Aeonium)

Aeonium nobile, commonly known as Noble Aeonium, are gorgeous Aeonium succulents native to the island of La Palma in the Canary Islands. It’s one of the most popular and well-known Aeoniums due to its easy care and unique appearance.

Aeonium nobile grows in the form of a rosette with thick, fleshy leaves that are green in color with wavy, almost ruffled margins. The leaves are arranged in a rosette shape as they grow close to the ground.

The leaves are the heroes of the show here; they are thick, fleshy, and heavily variegated with brown or red markings. Coupled with their wavy margins, they appear stunning, even from afar.

Mature plants bear clusters of red flowers. A thick multi-branched inflorescence rises from within the center of the rosette, making for an impressive display.

• Light: Full sun to part shade
• Mature Size: 16 inches wide, 12 inches tall
• Frost Hardiness: 25°F (-3.9°C)

Aeonium tabuliforme (Flat-topped Aeonium)

Aeonium tabuliforme is a beautiful, slow-growing succulent that forms rosettes of fleshy leaves. The leaves are flat, oval-shaped, and can grow up to 4 inches (10 cm) long. They’re uniformly light green in color and don’t have any variegation to speak of. They are also covered in cilia (short hairs) around the edges.

This display is worth every bit of effort that might go into cultivating this spectacular plant. It is also why Aeonium tabuliforme is also called Dinner Plate and Saucer Plant.

After many years of maturing, the plant sends up racemes of yellow, star-shaped flowers.

• Light: Full sun to part shade
• Mature Size: 18 inches diameter
• Frost Hardiness: 30°F (-1.1°C)

Aeonium undulatum (Stalked Aeonium)

Aeonium undulatum is a relatively large succulent shrub that forms rosettes of leaves at the tips of stems. It is native to Gran Canaria in the Canary Islands.

The leaves are fleshy and have undulating (wavy) margins. They can be up to 8 inches (20 cm) long and 2 inches (5 cm) wide. They are a bright, glossy green color with red margins or tips in rare cases.

Tall, thick, and woody stems rise from the ground. The rosettes develop along the tips of the stems, and each stem only has one rosette to its name. New rosettes develop from different stems that rise from the ground near the parent plant.

Summer is usually the flowering season, but it fluctuates from region to region.

• Light: Full sun to part shade
• Mature Size: 3.3 feet (1 meter)
• Frost Hardiness: 30°F (-1.1°C)

Aeonium urbicum (Saucer Plant)

Aeonium urbicum, commonly known as the Saucer Plant, is one of the largest types of Aeonium in the entire genus (over 2 meters tall). It is native to Tenerife in the Canary Islands.

A group of Aeoniums is called saucer plants. Aeonium urbicum is just one of them.

The Saucer Plant is a rosette-forming succulent with leaves that can grow up to 8 inches (20 cm) long and 3 inches (7.5 cm) wide. The leaves are smooth, spatula-shaped, and grey-green in color with red variegation along the margins.

They are relatively large in relation to the size of the rosette. As a result, they tend to bend under their own weight and make the rosette look slightly sloppy.

A dome-shaped inflorescence with hundreds of star-shaped white or pink flowers spells death for the plant when it appears after about 5-6 years. It’s spectacular to behold but saddening at the same time. These monocarpic plants die right after.

• Light: Full sun to part shade
• Mature Size: 6.6 feet (2 meters)
• Frost Hardiness: 30°F (-1.1°C)

Notable Aeonium Varieties

Aeonium arboreum ‘Zwartkop’ (Black Rose)

Aeonium arboreum ‘Zwartkop’ is a stunning succulent wildly popular among gardeners. It is one of the most famous cultivars of the Aeonium arboreum and serves as a standard-bearer for Aeonium varieties in cultivation.

Aeonium arboreum ‘Zwartkop’ is often used in landscaping and gardens. It’s known for its black leaves, which are actually a deep, dark purple.

Aeonium ‘Zwartkop’ rosettes are borne on tall, light brown stems that branch near the tips. Each branch has its own rosette, resulting in a stunning display.

If you want to get the most out of your Zwartkop, you’ll have to plant it in full sun. You see, the more sun the leaves get, the darker they become. So, to fully take advantage of this Aeonium’s coloration, place its pot in the sunniest location in your garden.

Even in the shade, the leaves retain their black color, but it’s not as deep, and the insides of the rosette tend to turn back to the default green of most Aeonium types.

• Light: Full sun
• Mature Size: 3-4 feet tall, 1-2 feet wide
• Frost Hardiness: 25°F (-3.9°C)

Aeonium arboreum ‘Atropurpureum’ (Purple Rose)

Aeonium arboreum ‘Atropurpureum’ is a stunning branching succulent with stunning rosettes on branching stems. It has gorgeous, deep purple leaves that grow in a rosette shape. The flowers are small and yellow, and they bloom in the springtime.

The leaves tend to change color with the sun. Without sunlight, they are a standard green color with hints of purple and red near the margins. With more and more sun, their color deepens, and they become more attractive.

This Aeonium is native to the Canary Islands, where it grows in the wild on rocky slopes. It’s a popular choice for gardens and as a houseplant due to its striking color and easy care requirements.

Note: Aeonium arboreum ‘Atropurpureum’ is often confused with Aeonium’ Zwartkop,’ but both of them are distinctly different plants. An easy way to identify them is by looking at the size of the rosette. If the rosette is larger than a foot, it’s a ‘Zwartkop,’ as ‘Atropurpureum’ tend to be on the shorter side.

Aeonium arboreum ‘Atropurpureum’ is a sun-loving plant, so make sure to give it plenty of bright light. It will tolerate some shade, but the leaves will not be as colorful.

• Light: Full sun
• Mature Size: 3 ft. tall, 1 ft. wide
• Frost Hardiness: 25°F (-3.9°C)

Aeonium ‘Cyclops’ (Giant Red Aeonium)

Aeonium ‘Cyclops’ is a cross between Aeonium arboreum ‘Zwarktop’ and Aeonium undulatum. It’s a massive plant that can grow up to four feet tall and three feet wide. The leaves are thick and fleshy, up to eight inches (20 cm) long, with a deep red hue that’s almost black in the right lighting.

The leaves are clustered around a central point, giving the plant a rosette shape. The center of the rosette is usually completely green, in stark contrast to the rest of the rosettes’ deep red coloration.

The flowers are borne on tall racemes, and they’re yellow in color. They appear in late winter or early spring after the plant has completed maturing.

This is not a plant for small gardens or containers. It needs plenty of room to spread out, and it’s best suited for growing in the ground. Each rosette tends to be around 16 inches in diameter, and there are multiple rosettes on many branches.

• Light: Full sun
• Mature Size: 4 feet tall, 2-3 feet wide
• Frost Hardiness: 25°F (-3.9°C)

Aeonium ‘Mardi Gras’

Aeonium’ Mardi Gras’ is a beautiful and unique cultivar that sports purple, green, and yellow leaves. The colors are so vibrant that they almost seem artificial.

For the full effect, provide the plant with plenty of sunlight or cooler temperatures. Aeonium’ Mardi Gras’ really showcases its beauty in direct sunlight or when provided with. The color of the leaves, which starts off yellow and green, drastically changes to bright pink and lime green colors. The variegation itself changes color, and it’s something you have to experience to really appreciate.

Aeonium’ Mardi Gras’ propagates by offsets, which means that it produces little clones of itself. So if you’re looking to add more plants to your collection, this is a good one to start with. It’s a relatively slow grower, so don’t expect it to take over your garden bed.

• Light: Full sun
• Mature Size: 1 ft. tall, 3 ft. wide
• Frost Hardiness: 20°F (-6.7°C)

FAQ

References

• “Aeonium castello-paivae, Los Angeles, UCLA Botanical Garden, 2019.05.22 (01)” by Vahe Martirosyan is licensed under CC BY-SA 2.0.
• Aeonium dodrantale in Botanischer Garten Muenster by Krzysztof Golik is licensed under CC BY 4.0
• Aeonium Hirense summer by Peter Coleman is licensed under CC BY-SA 3.0
• “Aeonium Leucoblepharum” by srboisvert is licensed under CC BY 2.0.
• “Aeonium nobile” by wallygrom is licensed under CC BY-SA 2.0.
• “aeonium undulatum” by Juan Ignacio 1976 is licensed under CC BY-SA 2.0.
• “201030 043 Lakeside CA – Daniel’s Specialty Nursery, Aeonium ‘Cyclops’, a Jack Catlin hybrid of Aeonium undulatum and Aeonium arboreum ‘Zwartkop’” by cultivar413 is licensed under CC BY 2.0.
• “Aeonium Schwarzkopf” by srboisvert is licensed under CC BY 2.0.