Types of Echeveria: Varieties, IDs, and Photos

Echeveria is a hugely popular genus of succulents, and for good reason! With their brightly colored rosettes and easy care requirements, they’re a perfect fit for any gardener. But with so many species and varieties to choose from, how do you know which one is perfect for your garden?

This post will introduce you to some of the most popular types of Echeveria, including their identifying features, photos, and care tips. Let’s get started!

About Echeveria

Echeveria is a large genus of succulents from the family Crassulaceae, mostly from Mexico, Central, and South America. There are about 150 species, and they come in a wide range of shapes and colors.

Echeveria was named after Atanasio Echeverría y Godoy, an 18th-century Mexican botanical illustrator famed for his work on the era-defining Flora Mexicana. Augustin Pyramus de Candolle is rumored to be responsible for awarding Godoy with this privilege.

Echeveria types, without exception, form rosettes of fleshy leaves. Variation in the structure of the rosette between Echeveria types is common, but in the end, they all form rosettes.

Mostly, these rosettes are stemless, emerging straight from the ground, but occasionally, rosettes are borne on thick, woody stems (Echeveria ‘Doris Taylor’).

The flowers can range from very showy to insignificant. They range in color from yellow, red, pink, purple, white, or coral and everything in-between. They’re usually borne on cymes that emerge from the center of the rosettes.

Main Characteristics

Common Name	Hens and Chicks
Botanical Name	Echeveria spp.
Family	Crassulaceae
Type	Succulent
Native Range	Mexico, Central America, South America
USDA Hardiness Zones	9 to 11
Mature Size	Height: 2-6 feet; Spread: 2-12 feet
Foliage	Evergreen
Propagation methods	by offsets, by cuttings
Sun	Full sun to part shade
Soil	Well-drained

Echeveria Classification

The classification of Echeveria has been a bit of a moving target over the years. It’s currently in a state of flux, with some taxonomists lumping together several genera that have historically been considered separate.

What stands out is the classification of Oliveranthus and Urbinia, two genera that were split off from Echeveria and then remerged when new information came to light.

Echeveria plants are not monophyletic; they readily cluster with many different genera. Most notably, Cremnophila, Graptopetalum, Pachyphytum, Thompsonella, and Sedum. There is some debate whether or not to include the Echeveria genus under the Sedum umbrella, as there is some supporting evidence to suggest this being appropriate. But for now, this is merely a debate for the scholars.

What Is Echeveria Used For?

Echeveria succulents are widely used as ornamental plants. They are popular houseplants and are often seen in gardens, both public and private.

Ornamental Arrangements

The rosette shape of many Echeveria types makes them ideal for planting in dish gardens and succulent arrangements. Low water requirements and easy care make these plants a great choice for beginning gardeners or those with busy schedules.

Attracting Pollinators

The flowers of some Echeveria species are very showy and can be quite attractive to pollinators like bees, butterflies, and hummingbirds. If you’re looking to attract bees and other pollinators to your garden, consider planting an Echeveria that produces large, brightly colored flowers.

Echeveria gibbiflora is most notable for acting as a host plant for Callophrys xami, a type of butterfly.

How to Identify an Echeveria?

After familiarizing yourself with this amazing genus, you’re probably wondering how to go about ID’ing Echeveria types. Here’s what to do:

1. Look for a rosette of leaves: The first, most basic thing to take note of is that you’re looking at a rosette. Because if you’re not, there is no way that you’re dealing with an Echeveria. So, if you’re looking at a rosette, note down its properties.
   Next, is it stemless or bearing a woody stem? If it’s stemless, is the rosette flat against the ground, or does it sit up on a short stalk?
2. Check the color: Echeveria plants are usually all leaves and no stems, so you’re checking the color of the leaves in most cases. Most Echeveria types exhibit colors ranging from green, green-grey, blue-green, to purple (e.g., Perle von Nurnberg). There are some outliers (e.g., Black Prince), but this mostly holds true.
3. Measure the Size: Barring a few exceptions, most Echeveria types tend to stay between 2-6 inches tall. This is the size of how tall the rosettes tend to get.
4. Count the offsets: Offsets aren’t really great identifiers because Echeveria tends to mostly get mixed up with Sempervivum, and Graptopetalum, both of which also offset profusely.
5. Look at the leaves: Echeveria usually has blue-green leaves. Even gray-green leaves are common. But more than the color, it’s the fleshiness of the leaves that sets them apart from Sempervivum leaves, which are usually much less fleshy as compared to Echeveria types.
   
   Are the leaves smooth or textured? How are they arranged? Are they tightly knit or form a loose rosette, or do they radiate out from the center of the rosette?
6. Finally, take a look at the flowers: What color are they? Are they borne on a cyme or raceme?
   Echeveria plant flowers are traditionally borne on thick, fleshy cymes that arise from the center of the rosette. They’re usually colorful and rarely white. Red-orange flowers, orange-pink flowers, orange-red flowers (Echeveria elegans), or just regular old mono-color red flowers are commonly seen on these cymes.

With these three characteristics in mind, you should be able to ID your Echeveria types with ease. 

Echeveria Photo Gallery

How To Care For Echeveria Plants

Echeveria succulents are among the most forgiving plants, even among succulents. They tolerate drought, infrequent watering, and just general neglect quite easily. The will to survive is strong, and as long as you stick to the recommended watering routine, you’ll find it impossible to mess up with these plants.

Light

Echeveria succulents need bright light, but they will tolerate some shade. Too much shade, however, and they’ll start to stretch out and become leggy. If that happens, simply give them a little more light, and they’ll quickly return to their compact shape.

Bright light is also considered essential for some Echeveria types that tend to change color with the intensity of the heat. These types of Echeveria need a modicum of bright light, preferably direct sunlight, as a means to retain their coloration.

Sunny windows are your best friends if you plan on growing Echeveria indoors.

Soil

Echeveria plants are not too fussy when it comes to soil, as long as it is well-draining. A succulent potting mix or a regular potting mix with some added perlite or pumice will work perfectly.

Also, ensure that your soil is porous; tightly bound together soils tend to crowd the roots and prevent them from doing their jobs. Echeveria roots prefer having some space to move around.

If you’re planning on keeping your Echeveria succulents in pots, ensure they have drainage holes.

Water

Most types of Echeveria succulents are drought-tolerant, which means that they store water in their leaves. This gives them the ability to go long periods of time without being watered. The best way to water an Echeveria is to let the soil dry out completely before giving it a good soaking. How often you might need to water will depend on a number of factors, such as the size of the pot, the type of soil, the amount of light, and the humidity.

In general, you should water your Echeveria about once a week during the spring and summer and every two to three weeks during the fall and winter.

An additional concern for Echeveria succulents is that their rosettes tend to allow water to pool in the center. This is a big problem for cultivation as overwatering is an easy route to a quick death for these succulent plants.

To combat this, it’s recommended to only water from the bottom. You can also water the soil directly, avoiding the rosette, but you have to be careful not to splash water inside the rosette.

Temperature

Echeveria succulents can handle a wide range of temperatures, from hot and dry desert conditions to cold mountain air. In general, they prefer warm weather. Around 65 and 80°F (18 – 27°C) is the sweet spot where most Echeveria succulent plants will be comfortable.

They will do poorly in temperatures below 50°F (10°C). However, some cold-hardy Echeveria varieties can handle temps as low as 20°F (-6°C).

These Echeveria types are typically native to high altitudes where the air is thinner, and the temperature fluctuates more. If you’re growing your Echeveria indoors, make sure the room is well ventilated as these plants don’t like stagnant air.

Humidity

Echeverias are not too fussy when it comes to humidity, but they prefer a dry climate. If the humidity is too high, it can cause problems with the leaves, such as fungal growth or leaf rot. Keep moisture levels around 50%, and you should be fine.

Fertilizer

Echeverias don’t require a lot of fertilizer, but they will benefit from it. Use a cactus fertilizer or a general-purpose fertilizer diluted to half strength and feed your plants once a month during the spring and summer.

Overfertilizing runs the risk of fertilizer burn as these succulent plants are not accustomed to that much feed. So, just like water, err on the side of too little rather than too much.

Overwintering

Echeverias are not frost-hardy and will not survive being exposed to temperatures below freezing for extended periods of time. To overwinter your succulents, simply move them to a bright location with temps around 50°F (10°C).

Temperature-regulated premises like a greenhouse are ideal. But if your Echeveria is potted, simply move the pot indoors come winter, and your Echeveria will be fine.

Echeveria Propagation

Most types of Echeveria can be easily propagated from offsets, leaf cuttings, or stem cuttings. Stem cuttings are rare as most Echeverias are stemless.

Propagation from Offsets

This is probably the easiest method of propagation, as it doesn’t require you to do anything. Unlike most other plants, Echeverias need no help with propagation. You might’ve heard Echeveria being called Hens and Chicks. This is in reference to their ability to branch out and easily form new offsets.

Also known as “pups,” offsets are baby Echeverias that form at the base of the mother plant. They can be carefully pulled away and transplanted into their own pot. Shears might be required to cut the connection of the offset from its parent, but generally, it’s fine to just twist away an offset by hand. Give a few days to air-heal the cut end of the offset that’s been separated before planting in a new pot.

Offsets are considered the de-facto method of propagation for most Echeveria types.

Propagation from Leaf Cuttings

Although this method is also quite straightforward, almost nobody uses this as offsets are generally much easier to handle and they’re, essentially, already established plants that don’t need time to adjust.

If you do decide to go with a cutting, simply make a clean cut lengthwise and allow the wound to callus over for a couple of days. Once the wound has healed, it can be planted in well-draining soil.

Water sparingly until roots have developed, which can take anywhere from two weeks to two months.

Common Echeveria Problems

Like solving real-life problems, it’s better to rectify the root cause rather than treat the symptoms. In general, most problems with Echeveria can be linked back to overwatering. Drain water quickly through the drainage holes, and don’t let it pool in the rosettes.

Other than that, Echeverias are generally quite hearty plants that don’t experience too many problems. However, this is what to look out for:

Fungal Growth

This is usually caused by too much humidity or not enough airflow. If you notice any white, powdery patches on the leaves, it’s a sure sign of fungal growth (unless that specific species of Echeveria is known to have white fuzz on the leaves; check to make sure).

The fastest way to combat this is to increase air circulation and reduce moisture levels. This can be done by moving the plant to a brighter location and/or adding a fan to the room.

Leaf Rot

This is another problem that’s caused by too much moisture. If the leaves of your Echeveria start to turn mushy or brown, it’s a sign that they’re rotting. Again, increase air circulation and reduce humidity. 90 percent of problems can be solved with following the basic care guidelines.

Fertilizer Burn

This is caused by using too much fertilizer or applying it too often. If you notice the leaves of your Echeveria turning brown or yellow, it’s a sure sign of fertilizer burn. Flush the soil with water to remove any excess fertilizer and then cut back on future feedings and you shouldn’t have any further problems.

Sunburn

Although Echeverias are succulents and do need some sun, too much sun can cause the leaves to turn brown or yellow. If you notice this happening, simply move your plant to a shadier location.

Pests

Echeverias are relatively pest-free, but they can occasionally be bothered by mealybugs, aphids, or scale insects. To deal with pests, regularly inspect your plants and remove any pests that you see. Use insecticidal soap or neem oil as a preventive measure; these are the safest options. 

Are Echeveria Plants Toxic?

The short answer is no; Echeveria plants are not toxic to humans or animals. In fact, they’re often recommended as houseplants for homes with pets because of their non-toxicity.

However, it’s worth mentioning that being non-toxic and edible are two different things. If your pets have a habit of eating your greens, keep your Echeveria out of reach. For the plant’s well-being, if nothing else.

Popular Types of Echeveria

There are literally hundreds of different Echeveria varieties out there. To give you a sense of the sheer variety within this genus, consider the following. These are just some of the more popular Echeveria types in circulation today.

Painted Echeveria (Echeveria nodulosa)

Painted Echeveria (Echeveria nodulosa) is a beautiful succulent with colorful leaves. It’s native to Mexico and gets its name from the way its leaves look like they’re painted. The leaves are an olive green color heavily variegated with red streaks or splotches that makes it look like red paint on a green canvas.

The level of red variegation is quite variable, so different specimens of the Painted Echeveria might exhibit different levels of it. Like Hens and Chicks, Echeveria nodulosa offsets heavily from its main rosette. Regular pruning is required if you plan to keep your plant in a small pot or container.

The Painted Echeveria boasts pale yellow flowers in the summer. They’re borne on tall stalks that emerge from the central rosette.

• Light: Full sun to part shade
• Mature Size: 2-3″ tall, 4-5″ wide
• Hardiness: 25°F (-3.9°C)

Mexican Snowball (Echeveria elegans)

Mexican Snowball (Echeveria elegans) is a beautiful succulent that’s native to Mexico. Its called Mexican Snowball because of the way its leaves look like they’re covered in snow. The leaves are actually covered in fine white hairs that give them a powdery appearance.

Echeveria elegans stands as a proud representative of its species. When gardeners think of Echeveria, they think of E. elegans. This level of notoriety is not for no reason.

Mexican Snowballs form gorgeous rosettes of fleshy grey-green or silver-green leaves. The offset easily, which in turn makes propagation a breeze. Coupled with their easy care requirements, they serve as the perfect introduction to their genus.

Yellow flowers with pink tips appear at the beginning of spring or late winter.

• Light: Full sun
• Mature Size: 2-3″ tall, 4-5″ feet wide
• Hardiness: 25°F (-3.9°C)

Echeveria gibbiflora

Echeveria gibbiflora is a beautiful, large Echeveria that’s native to Mexico. It’s characterized by its thick, glaucous leaves that grow in a rosette shape. The leaves are usually a uniform green color reminiscent of jungle foliage, but they blush a bright red in direct sunlight.

The bell-shaped flowers are either red or yellow. Echeveria gibbiflora flowers exhibit some similarities to Echeveria elegans. They grow on long stems that can reach up to 2 feet in length.

This succulent is among the largest in its genus as it rosettes can grow quite large even without much help. The broad nature of the leaves adds to that, adding a touch of majesty to the already gorgeous rosettes.

• Light: Full sun
• Mature Size: 16 inches
• Hardiness: 25°F (-3.9°C)

Painted Lady Echeveria (Echeveria derenbergii)

Echeveria ‘Painted Lady’ is one of the most popular echeverias. Botanically known as Echeveria derenbergii, it is at the forefront of its genus in cultivation.

This beautiful succulent has blue-green leaves that are sometimes more blue than green. The leaves are also edged in pink, which makes for stunning color contrast. They terminate in sharp points.

As the plant matures, it forms rosettes up to 3 inches in diameter. Instead of the traditional rose shape, its rosettes form a tightly bound pagoda-like shape that differentiates the species from the rest.

Cup-shaped yellow flowers tower over the rosettes when borne on tall stalks. They’re often “painted” with pink or red highlights.

• Light: Full sun
• Mature Size: 3″ in diameter
• Hardiness: 25°F (-3.9°C)

Mexican Firecracker Plant (Echeveria setosa)

The Mexican Firecracker Plant (Echeveria setosa) is a succulent that’s native to Mexico. It gets its common name from its bell-shaped flowers, which resemble little firecrackers.

This plant is easily identifiable by its spoon-shaped, fleshy leaves that have a thin coating of fine white hair. The color is most pronounced when the plant is exposed to lots of sunlight.

The Mexican Firecracker Plant blooms in the late spring or early summer. The flowers are extremely showy and earn this plant its place in the hall of fame of Echeveria. They’re yellow; bell-shaped flowers tipped with bright red. The result looks exactly like a lit firecracker. (Echeveria gibbiflora has similar flowers)

• Light: Full sun to part shade
• Mature Size: 2-3″ tall, 12″ wide
• Hardiness: 20°F (-6°C)

Ghost Echeveria (Echeveria lilacina)

Echeveria lilacina, or Ghost Echeveria, is among the most beautiful Echeveria currently in cultivation. It gets its common name from the color of its leaves, which are a striking silver-grey color. This plant is native to Mexico.

The Ghost Echeveria’s pale fleshy, silver-grey leaves are what make it such a standout succulent. They have a waxy surface and are slightly concave, giving them a cupped appearance. The tips of the leaves often turn red or pink in direct sunlight. In warmer seasons, the leaves often take on a lilac hue.

Ghost Echeveria bears small, coral-pink flowers that are borne on tall stalks that rise from the central rosette. The contrast is breathtaking.

• Light: Full sun
• Mature Size: 8″ tall, 12″ wide
• Hardiness: 20°F (-6.7°C)

Pink Frills (Echeveria Shaviana)

Echeveria shaviana is a beautiful succulent with large, spoon-shaped leaves that have frilled edges. The edges are highlighted with a bright pink color. The remaining parts of the leaves change colors as they mature.

They start off with a purple hue that matures to silver and then green as it reaches the end. The contrast between the edges of the leaves and the remaining portion ensures the plant doesn’t need flowers to retain interest.

The Shaviana Echeveria is the whole package. It looks downright gorgeous, its flowers are breath-taking (pink or orange), it offsets easily, and it barely demands anything from the gardener.

• Light: Full sun to part shade
• Mature Size: 2-3″ tall, 4-5″ wide
• Hardiness: 25°F (-3.9°C)

Blue Rose Echeveria (Echeveria Imbricata)

The Blue Rose Echeveria (Echeveria imbricata) is one of the most popular varieties of Echeveria. Its beautiful powder blue leaves are a treat to behold. The rosette shape is compact and can reach up to 8 inches in diameter.

But what sets the succulent apart from other Echeveria types is the perfect symmetry of the rosettes. Their rosette shape is true to form, resembling a real rose more than most. And the hint of pink color that tinges the tips of the leaves just adds to the overall effect.

As Echeveria imbricata matures, it begins to offset more and more, making propagation easy. Red or pink flowers appear in the summer.

• Light: Part sun to part shade
• Mature Size: 8″ tall, 6″ wide
• Hardiness: 25°F (-3.9°C)

Peacock Echeveria (Echeveria peacockii)

Echeveria peacockii (Peacock Echeveria) is a small succulent that forms rosettes of green-gray leaves with red margins. The leaves are often tinted red or pink, especially when they’re exposed to direct sunlight.

Coral pink flowers appear in spring or summer. They grow on long stalks that can reach up to 10 inches in length.

Echeveria peacockii was renamed Echeveria desmetiana after some studies were made. However, in most texts, you’ll still find it being referred to as Echeveria peacockii.

• Light: Full sun to part shade
• Mature Size: 6″ wide
• Hardiness: 25°F (-3.9°C)

Lipstick Echeveria (Echeveria agavoides)

Echeveria agavoides ‘Lipstick’ is a succulent that’s native to Mexico. It gets its botanical epithet (agavoides) from the perfectly triangular leaves that resemble those of an agave plant.

The leaves are a beautiful green color with red highlights running along the edges that look like the streaks of lipstick in the process of being applied. Since these streaks of crimson are so localized, it makes sense to name these types of Echeveria, Lipstick.

New rosettes appear periodically by the parent plant as it offsets often. If allowed, these Echeverias can form a mat of flaming rosettes that adorn the garden.

• Light: Full sun to part shade
• Mature Size: 6″ tall, 8-12″ wide
• Hardiness: 20°F (-6.7°C)

Echeveria runyonii ‘Topsy Turvy’

Echeveria runyonii ‘Topsy Turvy’ is a beautiful, blue-green succulent with leaves that grow in a spiral pattern. The leaves are fleshy, blue-grey, and have a waxy coating that helps the plant retain water.

The name ‘Topsy Turvy’ comes from the way the leaves grow – they seem to be growing upside down! The surfaces of the leaves twist to face downwards. As the spoon-shaped fleshy leaves terminate, they bend backward so that their tips are pointing towards the center of the rosette. It’s a sight you have to see to appreciate.

Echeveria runyonii flowers in the summer, sending up stalks from the rosettes to bear yellow or orange flowers.

• Light: Full sun to part shade
• Mature Size: 8-12″ tall
• Hardiness: 25°F (-3.9°C)

Echeveria ‘Black Prince’

Echeveria ‘Black Prince’ is a cultivar of Echeveria succulent that has dark purple leaves that are so dark they almost look like they’re completely black. It is a popular cultivar and is often used in gardens and landscaping. The sharp contrast of the black color is much appreciated in gardens dominated by greens.

It forms tight rosettes of spoon-shaped fleshy leaves. When young, the leaves start off completely green. But as they age, they become more and more purple until they reach maturity and become black. Remember to provide this succulent with the frequent sun; otherwise, the gorgeous color will fade.

If you’re looking for an interesting plant with dark leaves, then the Echeveria ‘Black Prince’ should be at the top of your list.

• Light: Full sun to part shade
• Mature Size: 3″ tall, 8″ wide
• Hardiness: 25°F (-3.9°C)

Echeveria ‘Dusty Rose’

Dusty Rose is a beautiful echeveria succulent that has striking pinkish-purple leaves. It’s a beautiful addition to any garden and is sure to get attention! The color of the leaves is quite stunning, and it’s definitely a plant that will add some pizzazz to your garden!

Echeveria ‘Dusty Rose’ forms rosettes of its large-faced leaves in an almost air-tight fashion. The gaps between the leaves of the rosettes are unusually small, and as a result, the structure retains a lot of water if watered directly from above, which is a big problem for succulents. Therefore, it’s advised you bottom water this plant to avoid pooling water in the rosette.

More sunlight is known to help this Echeveria retain its bright color, so place accordingly.

• Light: Full sun to part shade
• Mature Size: 8″ diameter
• Hardiness: 30°F (-1.1°C)

Echeveria ‘Perle von Nurnberg’

Echeveria ‘Perle von Nurnberg’ is prized for its striking purple leaves. The leaves are curved inwards, and they grow in a rosette pattern. The sheen of the leaves makes this one of the most attractive Echeveria types. It is considered among the most widely spread varieties of Echeveria being grown in gardens and homes.

Bright light plays a huge role in this succulent. Placing it somewhere bright and sunny will ensure healthy colors and long-term vibrancy. But in complete shade or a darkened spot, the leaves lose their vigor surprisingly quickly.

Interested in more Purple Succulents? Check out this list of 50 purple succulents!

Echeveria ‘Perle von Nurnberg’ is a beautiful succulent that is perfect for those who are new to growing succulents. These types of Echeveria appreciate a good watering session but only when the soil is dry.

• Light: Full sun to part shade
• Mature Size: 5″ tall, 6″ wide
• Hardiness: 30°F (-1.1°C)

Woolly Rose (Echeveria ‘Doris Taylor’)

The Woolly Rose (Echeveria ‘Doris Taylor’) is a beautiful fuzzy succulent that’s native to Mexico. It gets its common name from the hairy, woolly leaves that cover the plant. Echeveria ‘Doris Taylor’ is a hybrid succulent that is a cross between the popular succulents Echeveria pulvinata x Echeveria setosa.

A list of 25 Different Types Of Fuzzy Succulents

They have olive-green leaves covered with fine, white hairs that make the leaves feel soft to the touch. Intense sunlight causes the leaves to change color, changing from a regular green to one heavily tinged with dark red.

Its rosettes are borne thick, woody stems, unlike most of its cousins that grow stemless. This allows the rosettes to reach some height and look more like a shrub than a regular Echeveria.

• Light: Full sun to part shade
• Mature Size: 5″ tall, 8″ wide
• Hardiness: 25°F (-3.9°C)

Echeveria ‘Neon Breakers’

Echeveria ‘Neon Breakers’ is among the most popular Echeveria types that are available for public use. It’s characterized by its rosettes of purple leaves with pink margins. The tips of the leaves are heavily ruffled or crinkled, sort of like Echeveria shaviana.

This plant is perfect for those who want something colorful that’s different from the regular greens you might find in a garden. The pink margins provide a nice pop of color without being overwhelming. And the pink flowers add an extra touch of vibrancy when they appear in the spring.

The rosettes tend to get quite large, and they look their best when they’re on their own. Keep removing offsets as they appear to keep your solitary rosette looking clean and pretty.

• Light: Full sun to part shade
• Mature Size: 2-3″ tall, 8″ wide
• Hardiness: 25°F (-3.9°C)

What Is The Difference Between Echeveria and Sempervivum?

Echeveria and Sempervivum are two different types of succulents but telling the difference between the two can be hard. Before we delve into the differences, it’s important to note the similarities between the two.

Similarities:

First off, both Echeveria and Sempervivum share a common name: Hens and Chicks. This common name is a reference to the tendency of plants in both genera to offset heavily.

If you see a rosette of succulent, fleshy green leaves with dozens of offsets growing in a garden, you can’t say either way based on the number of the offsets.

Both plants are drought tolerant and do well in dry, sunny locations.

Similarly, both genera have a similar overall shape, i.e., the leafy rosette. To tell the difference, you have to dig deeper. Here’s how:

Differences:

Check the leaves:

The leaves of most Echeveria types tend to be thicker, fleshier, and wider than those of Sempervivum. They usually have spoon-shaped leaves that curve inwards (but not always).

Echeveria leaves’ color is often a toss-up between blue-green, slate gray, purple, or regular old olive green. Sempervivum leaves, on the other hand, tend to be thinner, pointier, and more colorful. They range from blue-green to red-brown in color.

Look at the Flowers:

Sempervivums usually have star-shaped flowers, whereas Echeverias often bear bell-shaped flowers. Flowers are borne on tall, fleshy stalks in both cases, but the Echeveria flowers tend to be showier (e.g., Echeveria elegans).

Gauge the Size:

Echeverias range from half an inch to 20 inches in diameter, whereas Sempervivums are generally larger, reaching about 2 feet in diameter at their largest. In general, Sempervivums are larger than Echeveria.

Cold Hardiness:

Surviving the cold is where the Sempervivums have Echeveria beat completely. Where the Echeveria types are only frost tolerant in USDA Hardiness Zones 9-11, Sempervivums are hardy to Zones as low as 5, sometimes 4.

So, if your rosette is able to survive below-freezing temperatures comfortably, chances are, it’s a Sempervivum.

16 Most Incredible Echeveria Types (Video)

FAQ

References:

• “Painted-lady – Echeveria derenbergii” by Björn S… is marked with CC BY-SA 2.0.
• “P20131128-0007—Echeveria agavoides” by John Rusk is licensed under CC BY 2.0.
• “Echeveria ‘Black Prince’ エケベリア・古紫” by salchuiwt is licensed under CC BY-SA 2.0.
• Echeveria’ Dusty Rose’ photo via crassulaceae.ch
• “Bee in ponderous flight” by GerryT is licensed under CC BY 2.0.